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Another method I’ve used which is more unwieldy, is to put a voltmeter and a small precision load (a hundred ohm resistor will do) on the panel, and position for maximum voltage. After selecting the type of system (choose "off-grid") and your latitude, enter the values for installed peak PV power (in Wp), battery capacity (in Wh), discharge cutoff limit (in %), energy consumption (in Wh), the inclination angle of slope (in degrees) and azimuth (in degrees, the position of the PV panel relative to the direction due South). Battery size is always a compromise between reliability on the one side and costs (both financially and energy) on the other, so some demand-side response is inevitable. The best starting point is usually to determine the battery size you need. After you decide what battery you need, you also need to increase the solar panel surface. If there’s also solar energy use during the day, this adds to the total solar panel surface.

Energy use corresponds to power multiplied by time. As an example, to adjust the flow of AC power on a hypothetical line between Seattle and Boston would require adjustment of the relative phase of the two regional electrical grids. For example, choose a solar panel with a power production of double the power use of the device(s) you want to connect. If you want reliability thanks to a more extensive battery system, multiply the required battery capacity by the number of bad weather days you need power. If your solar panel produces 3A of current, you need a DC-DC converter or solar charge controller that withstands at least 3A of current. Then, start with a random solar panel size and see what it gives. How to size solar panels, batteries, and other components? You need to dimension all the components of a solar installation correctly to work together. With two of these panels connected in parallel, you need components that can take 6A of current. Now that you know the size of the battery, you can determine the size of the solar panel.

In contrast, a 20 watt solar panel working at half its capacity would need 14,4 hours, which won’t happen. For example, if your solar panel produces 3A of current, you need a DC-DC converter or solar charge controller that withstands at least 3A of current. As your solar panel surface gets larger, it will fully charge the battery even with a cloud cover. In order to solve that, you can extend the battery storage or the solar panel surface. Alternatively, you can build a control panel to use several devices with different voltages. However, you need enough space for the extra solar panel surface, which may not always be available. Lead-acid batteries should not drop below 50% of their maximum capacity, and for lithium-ion, that’s 15%. If you need 120 watt-hours of storage capacity, you thus need a 240 watt-hours lead-acid battery (or a 138 Wh lithium-ion battery). 120 watt-hours of energy. If we stick to the example above, keeping the lights on for six hours requires an energy storage of 120 watt-hours.

That is a worst-case scenario, and instead of adding storage capacity you can also reduce energy demand by using less light or using it for a shorter time. If your DC-DC converter has a variable voltage output, you can use the solar panel for different types of appliances by turning the little screw. For example, fully charging a 288 watt-hour battery requires the solar panel to supply 144 watt-hours. Furthermore, charging and discharging losses are as high as 20-30% in lead-acid batteries and around 10% in lithium-ion batteries. If you run a laptop directly on a solar panel, know that it will require much more power when charging than when its battery is fully charged (or when it’s operating without a battery). A light cloud cover has little effect on power production, while a heavy cloud cover may nearly stop it. A solar panel may be large enough to power a laptop but not to charge its battery.

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