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The cue is a tapered rod of polished wood or synthetic material, ranging in length from about 40 to 60 inches (100 to 150 cm). The game of English billiards is played on a relatively large table, usually 6 feet 1.5 inches by 12 feet (1.9 by 3.7 m); it is played with three balls as in carom-a plain white, a white with a spot, and a red. Carom billiards involves players scoring points by bouncing the cue ball off the opponent’s ball and into a pocket. The game of pocket billiards, or pool, which uses six large pocket openings, is primarily the game played on the American continents and, in recent years, has been played in Japan. Players take turns shooting, aiming to pocket objects. Whether you’re just starting out or looking to take your game to new heights, a solid grasp of the rules, game variations, and strategies will set you on the path to success. The earliest references to the game in Europe occur in the 15th century.

The origins of billiards date back to the 15th century in Europe. Carom billiards is played on a table usually 5 by 10 feet (1.5 by 3 m) or 4.5 by 9 feet (1.4 by 2.7 m). The traditional mahogany billiards table is still in use, but tables are now generally made of other woods and synthetic materials. Billiards is played on a table without pockets. Whether you’re a beginner looking to learn the basics or an experienced player seeking advanced strategies, having a solid grasp of billiards rules is crucial. Now, so long as such motivations and considerations exist, you’re not meditating. Yes, while various sizes exist, regulation sizes are commonly used for professional play. Tables come in various sizes, but regulation sizes are common for competitive play. When a key is inserted into the keyway slot at the front of the plug, the pin stacks are raised within the plug and shell. The height (or cut depth) of a key under each pin stack position is called its bitting; the bitting of a key is the "secret" needed to open a lock. A key that is bitted to the wrong depth in even one pin position will not operate the lock.

It's aimed at working locksmiths, and has a broad discussion of picking techniques and principles, albeit with less depth than the Finch book. Another tutorial reference is The National Locksmith Guide to Picking and Impressioning by Robert Sieveking. Picking locks requires skill, practice, and the use of rather unusual (and not widely available) tools. See Figure 1. (In practice, the cuts are produced by stacking pin segments of particular lengths, not by actually cutting the pins; hence the term "pin stack.") With no key in the lock, all the pin stack cuts rest within the plug. Regular practice, learning from experienced players, and seeking professional guidance are effective ways to enhance your skills. I imagine that most of you here are either in college or college educated. A detailed introduction to locks is well beyond the scope of this document; we assume here that you already understand, or have access to, the basic principles.

Here the plug has been turned slightly toward the camera, what is billiards so that the tops of the pins in the plug are visible. Now apply heavy torque, with the aim of pinching all the bottom pins at the shear line. If this pin stack is slowly pushed up with torque applied to the plug, eventually its cut will reach the shear line and the plug will turn a bit more. Only one pin stack should be in a binding state at any given time, of course. Both the pick and the torque tool also amplify and transmit feedback about the state of the lock back to their user. Left: Cylinder face, the lock's "user interface." Note the keyway, which is cut into the plug, which in turn sits inside the shell. However, note that because the tumblers are a single piece, sawtooth raking, snap guns, and bump keys are not effective against them. Lever locks employ a set of "lever" tumblers raised to a specific height by the key bitting. When the pin stack truly sets at the shear line, it will feel like an ordinary set pin.