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How to Replace an Audi A1 keys G28 Engine Speed Sensor
Charles the Humble Technician shows how to replace the G28 Engine Speed Sensor. The sensor is situated near the edges of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear. It sends a message to the ECU via a grey wire T55/49, then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
Located on the edge of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear the G28 Engine Speed Sensor sends an electrical signal to ECU pin T55/49 via the grey wire. The ECU utilizes this information to regulate the amount of fuel and boost. It also sends an indication to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster.
The sensor serves as a reference to correlate with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is located so that it can trigger spark and injectors in the right way.
If this sensor fails the ECU will show an error code P00160 which indicates that the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft aren't in sync and could indicate the chain is stretched or a jump link on the upper timing chain. However, the error code won't be displayed on its own without additional information from other sensors (G4 and G40).
It is a little tricky to test since there are several pins on the connector and they all have different functions. The most effective method to test it is by measuring the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. When the sensor is operational, it should read around 1000 ohms. Look for signs of coolant, or oil in the connector bay if you are experiencing issues with this component.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, as i was accelerating off the highway paytoll at maximum speed, i noticed a huge drop in power. It was like the engine had run out of gas. Or my injectors were not firing. I took out the spark plugs this morning, 3 were soaked with gasoline and the 4th was dry. When I crank the engine with no sparks, I put a piece of tissue on the top of each hole in the injector, the 3 drenched with gazoline leap out, however the 4th stays shut. I inspected the ground connection on ECU pins 14/55,30/55 and 48/55 i get zero ohm. I think the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID but with no luck. The car can start when the G28 is unplugged and is running fine when it is connected however it is experiencing intermittent misfires at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62) even if it is not plugged in, shows a temperature of -49c. I also noticed that the gauge for oil pressure in the cockpit shows 2 bar while the actual pressure is 0.0 if i crank up the engine.
I don't know what to do. I believe that I've all other possibilities out. I'm afraid i may have missed something. Please let me know if you have any ideas! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 can be activated by a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter is identical to the G4 and both are used in the 80, repairer 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars which is why you can easily locate one at a salvage yard or in a local parts store. It is simple to test them - put your DMM in resistance mode and measure the resistance between pins 1 (with the bump on the connector end up) and 2 (2nd from the left on the black end of the connector). They should be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
The ECU in our 20vt turbo (3B AAN ABY ADU) engines must be aware of the position and speed of the crankshaft to make decisions regarding timing of the fuel injector, etc. It uses a Crank Position Sensor G4 and an Engine Speed Sensor G28 to achieve this. If you encounter a problem with either one of these, the diagnostic scanner will display codes that could cause an engine shut down.
A damaged G28 sensor can cause an inaccurate speed counter for the gearbox and a gearbox which shifts more quickly than normal, and/or a misfire in the gear. If you experience any of these issues it is likely that your sensor is deteriorating and should be replaced. They're cheap and easy to find particularly if they're a Bosch unit like ours. Alternately, GM's version this part would be a good option.
5. Tachometer
A malfunctioning engine speed sensor could be the cause of a slew of issues in your vehicle. It is an important part of the transmission of your audi tt key programming because it relays information to the ECU regarding how fast or slowly the car's engine is spinning. This sensor could cause the transmission to fail and other components in the car to be affected.
The G5 engine speed sensor is located on the outside of the transmission just above the flywheel ring gear. It sends a signal to the ECU at pin T55/49 via an uncolored wire. The ECU utilizes this signal to control fuel and boost, and also timig. It also relays it to the G5 Tachometer inside the instrument cluster. You can check the sensor for failure by checking continuity between it and the tachometer, between ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection on pin T6a/1 (trace [79]) and between T6a/1 and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. You should see approximately 1000 ohms resistance between those two pins. This is a common part across the Audi key fob not working 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC to the 1997 UrS AAN and Key Audi 1995 RS2 ADU, so the best ones might be availble in wrecking yards.
Charles the Humble Technician shows how to replace the G28 Engine Speed Sensor. The sensor is situated near the edges of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear. It sends a message to the ECU via a grey wire T55/49, then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
Located on the edge of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear the G28 Engine Speed Sensor sends an electrical signal to ECU pin T55/49 via the grey wire. The ECU utilizes this information to regulate the amount of fuel and boost. It also sends an indication to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster.
The sensor serves as a reference to correlate with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is located so that it can trigger spark and injectors in the right way.
If this sensor fails the ECU will show an error code P00160 which indicates that the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft aren't in sync and could indicate the chain is stretched or a jump link on the upper timing chain. However, the error code won't be displayed on its own without additional information from other sensors (G4 and G40).
It is a little tricky to test since there are several pins on the connector and they all have different functions. The most effective method to test it is by measuring the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. When the sensor is operational, it should read around 1000 ohms. Look for signs of coolant, or oil in the connector bay if you are experiencing issues with this component.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, as i was accelerating off the highway paytoll at maximum speed, i noticed a huge drop in power. It was like the engine had run out of gas. Or my injectors were not firing. I took out the spark plugs this morning, 3 were soaked with gasoline and the 4th was dry. When I crank the engine with no sparks, I put a piece of tissue on the top of each hole in the injector, the 3 drenched with gazoline leap out, however the 4th stays shut. I inspected the ground connection on ECU pins 14/55,30/55 and 48/55 i get zero ohm. I think the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID but with no luck. The car can start when the G28 is unplugged and is running fine when it is connected however it is experiencing intermittent misfires at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62) even if it is not plugged in, shows a temperature of -49c. I also noticed that the gauge for oil pressure in the cockpit shows 2 bar while the actual pressure is 0.0 if i crank up the engine.
I don't know what to do. I believe that I've all other possibilities out. I'm afraid i may have missed something. Please let me know if you have any ideas! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 can be activated by a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter is identical to the G4 and both are used in the 80, repairer 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars which is why you can easily locate one at a salvage yard or in a local parts store. It is simple to test them - put your DMM in resistance mode and measure the resistance between pins 1 (with the bump on the connector end up) and 2 (2nd from the left on the black end of the connector). They should be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
The ECU in our 20vt turbo (3B AAN ABY ADU) engines must be aware of the position and speed of the crankshaft to make decisions regarding timing of the fuel injector, etc. It uses a Crank Position Sensor G4 and an Engine Speed Sensor G28 to achieve this. If you encounter a problem with either one of these, the diagnostic scanner will display codes that could cause an engine shut down.
A damaged G28 sensor can cause an inaccurate speed counter for the gearbox and a gearbox which shifts more quickly than normal, and/or a misfire in the gear. If you experience any of these issues it is likely that your sensor is deteriorating and should be replaced. They're cheap and easy to find particularly if they're a Bosch unit like ours. Alternately, GM's version this part would be a good option.
5. Tachometer
A malfunctioning engine speed sensor could be the cause of a slew of issues in your vehicle. It is an important part of the transmission of your audi tt key programming because it relays information to the ECU regarding how fast or slowly the car's engine is spinning. This sensor could cause the transmission to fail and other components in the car to be affected.
The G5 engine speed sensor is located on the outside of the transmission just above the flywheel ring gear. It sends a signal to the ECU at pin T55/49 via an uncolored wire. The ECU utilizes this signal to control fuel and boost, and also timig. It also relays it to the G5 Tachometer inside the instrument cluster. You can check the sensor for failure by checking continuity between it and the tachometer, between ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection on pin T6a/1 (trace [79]) and between T6a/1 and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. You should see approximately 1000 ohms resistance between those two pins. This is a common part across the Audi key fob not working 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC to the 1997 UrS AAN and Key Audi 1995 RS2 ADU, so the best ones might be availble in wrecking yards.
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