The 10 Most Terrifying Things About Audi G28
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How to Replace an replacement audi a4 key G28 Engine Speed Sensor
Charles the Humble Technician shows you how to replace the G28 Engine Speed Sensor. This sensor is located at the edge of transmission over the flywheel gear. It sends a message to the ECU through an uncolored wire T55/49, then to the tachometer located on the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
It is located on the outside of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear G28 Engine Speed Sensor sends signals to ECU pin T55/49 through the grey wire. The ECU utilizes this information to control boost and fuel. It also sends an alert to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used to link the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu must know when the crankshaft is TDC and the location of the camshaft so it can activate spark and injectors in the right way.
If this sensor fails when it fails, the ECU will display a P00160 error message. This means that the Crank Shaft is not in line with the Intake Camshaft. It could also be a sign of an issue with the chain or a jumpy chain link in the upper chain. The code will not appear without the additional information supplied by other sensors (G4 or G40).
It is a little tricky to test since there are various pins on the connector and Audi Connect Key each one has different functions. The most effective method to test it is by measuring the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. It should read approximately 1000 ohms if the sensor is operating at its maximum. If you are having problems with this sensor, look for evidence of coolant or oil in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, when accelerating from highway paytoll at maximum speed I noticed a significant decrease in power. It was like the engine was running out of gas. Or my injectors were not firing. I pulled out the spark plugs this morning, three were soaked with gasoline and the 4th was dry. When I crank the engine with no sparks, I put a piece of tissue on the top of each of the injector holes, the 3 drenched with gazoline jump out but the 4th stays shut. I checked the ground connection of ECU pins 14,30, and 48/55. I got 0ohm. So i assume the problem is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID with no success. The car will start when the G28 is disconnected, but it works fine when the G28 connected. However the intermittent misfire issue persists at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62), even if it is not plugged in, shows a temperature of -49c. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bars while the actual pressure is zero.
I don't know what to do. I feel like i've pretty much ruled everything else out. I'm afraid i may have missed something. If anyone has any suggestions, please chime in! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump of the g28 gets a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style sensor is identical to the G4 and they both work in the 80 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars so you can easily find one at a junkyard or from a parts store. It is easy to test them: simply switch your DMM into resistance mode and measure the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump at the connector's end facing up). They must be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
Our 20vt turbo (3B AAN, ABY and ADU) engines have an ECU that has to know the position and speed of the crankshaft to make decisions about fuel injector timing etc. It utilizes a Crank Position Sensor G4 and an Engine Speed Sensor G28 to achieve this. If either of these goes bad you will get codes on the diagnostic scanner that can cause the engine to shut down.
A damaged G28 sensor could result in an inaccurate speed counter for the gearbox or a gearbox that shifts faster than normal, or a misfire in gear. If you have any of these problems, it is likely that your sensor is deteriorating and should be replaced. They're inexpensive and easy to locate particularly in the case of a Bosch model like ours. Alternately, the GM version of this part is also a great option.
5. Tachometer
A malfunctioning engine sensor can cause a myriad of issues in your audi car keys. It's an essential component of the audi a1 key replacement's transmission as it sends information to the ECU about how the car's crankshaft is turning. If the sensor fails, audi tt key programming it could affect the performance of the transmission, as well as the other car's components.
The G5 engine sensor is located at the outskirts of transmission, above the flywheel ring. It sends a signal via a gray wire to the ECU pin T55/49. The ECU then uses and processes this signal to regulate fuel, timig and boost, and also transmitting it to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster. You can check the sensor for failure by examining the continuity between it and the tachometer, between ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection to pin T6a/1 (trace [79]) as well as between T6a/1, and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. You should detect a resistance of approximately 1000 ohms in these areas. This is a standard part across the Replacement Audi Key Cost 80 100 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC through the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU, so the best ones could be available in wrecking yards.
Charles the Humble Technician shows you how to replace the G28 Engine Speed Sensor. This sensor is located at the edge of transmission over the flywheel gear. It sends a message to the ECU through an uncolored wire T55/49, then to the tachometer located on the instrument cluster.1. Engine Speed Sensor
It is located on the outside of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear G28 Engine Speed Sensor sends signals to ECU pin T55/49 through the grey wire. The ECU utilizes this information to control boost and fuel. It also sends an alert to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used to link the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu must know when the crankshaft is TDC and the location of the camshaft so it can activate spark and injectors in the right way.
If this sensor fails when it fails, the ECU will display a P00160 error message. This means that the Crank Shaft is not in line with the Intake Camshaft. It could also be a sign of an issue with the chain or a jumpy chain link in the upper chain. The code will not appear without the additional information supplied by other sensors (G4 or G40).
It is a little tricky to test since there are various pins on the connector and Audi Connect Key each one has different functions. The most effective method to test it is by measuring the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. It should read approximately 1000 ohms if the sensor is operating at its maximum. If you are having problems with this sensor, look for evidence of coolant or oil in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, when accelerating from highway paytoll at maximum speed I noticed a significant decrease in power. It was like the engine was running out of gas. Or my injectors were not firing. I pulled out the spark plugs this morning, three were soaked with gasoline and the 4th was dry. When I crank the engine with no sparks, I put a piece of tissue on the top of each of the injector holes, the 3 drenched with gazoline jump out but the 4th stays shut. I checked the ground connection of ECU pins 14,30, and 48/55. I got 0ohm. So i assume the problem is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID with no success. The car will start when the G28 is disconnected, but it works fine when the G28 connected. However the intermittent misfire issue persists at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62), even if it is not plugged in, shows a temperature of -49c. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bars while the actual pressure is zero.
I don't know what to do. I feel like i've pretty much ruled everything else out. I'm afraid i may have missed something. If anyone has any suggestions, please chime in! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump of the g28 gets a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style sensor is identical to the G4 and they both work in the 80 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars so you can easily find one at a junkyard or from a parts store. It is easy to test them: simply switch your DMM into resistance mode and measure the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump at the connector's end facing up). They must be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
Our 20vt turbo (3B AAN, ABY and ADU) engines have an ECU that has to know the position and speed of the crankshaft to make decisions about fuel injector timing etc. It utilizes a Crank Position Sensor G4 and an Engine Speed Sensor G28 to achieve this. If either of these goes bad you will get codes on the diagnostic scanner that can cause the engine to shut down.
A damaged G28 sensor could result in an inaccurate speed counter for the gearbox or a gearbox that shifts faster than normal, or a misfire in gear. If you have any of these problems, it is likely that your sensor is deteriorating and should be replaced. They're inexpensive and easy to locate particularly in the case of a Bosch model like ours. Alternately, the GM version of this part is also a great option.
5. Tachometer
A malfunctioning engine sensor can cause a myriad of issues in your audi car keys. It's an essential component of the audi a1 key replacement's transmission as it sends information to the ECU about how the car's crankshaft is turning. If the sensor fails, audi tt key programming it could affect the performance of the transmission, as well as the other car's components.
The G5 engine sensor is located at the outskirts of transmission, above the flywheel ring. It sends a signal via a gray wire to the ECU pin T55/49. The ECU then uses and processes this signal to regulate fuel, timig and boost, and also transmitting it to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster. You can check the sensor for failure by examining the continuity between it and the tachometer, between ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection to pin T6a/1 (trace [79]) as well as between T6a/1, and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. You should detect a resistance of approximately 1000 ohms in these areas. This is a standard part across the Replacement Audi Key Cost 80 100 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC through the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU, so the best ones could be available in wrecking yards.
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